Chợ Lớn Self-Guided Morning Walk

Do it solo or with family & friends!

Chợ Lớn (often referred to as “Chinatown”) covers a large part of multiple districts in Hồ Chí Minh City, however, this walk only introduces you to a section of it (see map below) and what is perhaps best described as “the central part” of the locale.

You might say it’s the spiritual home of Chợ Lớn as it’s the area with the most temples and pagodas (although they don’t feature much on this walk), along with some of the finest remaining examples of French colonial-era architecture in the south.

Tea wholesalers and traditional herbal medicine shops abound both sides of central Hải Thượng Lãn Ông Street which – along with some of the friendliest happy-go-lucky people in the city – contribute to the vibe of a neighbourhood that can only be fully-understood by walking the streets and allowing yourself time to take it all in.

It’s a feeling that doesn’t seem to exist in any other part of Hồ Chí Minh City.

As you wander further into the labyrinth of streets and alleyways on this walk, through the wholesale markets dodging and weaving the busy wholesalers packaging up their next deliveries and who still take the time to greet you and ask where you’re from, you’ll come to understand precisely what I’m talking about.

This walk is best done early in the morning when temperatures are comfortable for walking and when breakfast stalls are open, hoping to tempt hungry workers with their offerings as they whiz by on their motorbikes in a mad dash to work!

Hồ Chí Minh City is flat and so is Chợ Lớn, which means you don’t need to have a high level of fitness to do this 8km walk – although, if you’re accustomed to walking regularly, it will put you in good stead and make your experience more enjoyable.

I suggest that you leave yourself around 4 hours so you can become immersed in the best of what this area of Chợ Lớn has to offer. Try not to start any later than 7am, trust me, I know, temperatures soar from 10am onwards!

Plus, this time of the day is best for photos!

And finally, just to let you know, I pay my own way when creating these experiences, so any recommendations made on this route are my suggestions based on my own experiences and what I think might be suitable for you to experience as well.

But if you feel like veering off the path, by all means do, you can always link back up to my suggested route somewhere along the way, just refer to the map I’ve provided.

I trust you’ll enjoy this walk in one of my favourite neighbourhoods in the city, and feel free to share your experiences with me in the comment section below!

Đi thôi! (Let’s go!)

Click on the map or THIS LINK to open up the map to help you navigate your way!

1. Khách Sạn Tản Đà 4

I'm starting this walk here, firstly, because right next door is a good place to park my motorbike for just VND5K, and secondly, the building also happens to be the property where scenes for Thomas Fowler's room "overlooking Rue Catinat" were filmed for the 1958 version of The Quiet American. Boom, two in one! Oh, and right across the street is a strip of food vendors selling all sorts of breakfast options, but if you’re willing to hold on, you can try a really good phở just around the corner on Tân Hàng Street that I personally recommend!

2. Phở Ngân Nghi

If you're doing this walk in the morning (highly-recommended), come with an empty belly so you can fill it first thing with this tasty phở for less than US$2. The one in the picture below is phở nạm (beef flank). And right next door is a small vendor who sells warm tofu for breaky...hey, don't knock it till you've tried it! But if you’re not up for that either, there’s a selection of vendors to choose from among this little co-op to help you kick off the day! After you've eaten, retrace your steps back to Phạm Đôn Street, turn left and continue past where this walk started, then at the end of the street, turn left onto Hải Thượng Lãn Ông Street. Be careful at this intersection as traffic tends to be busy in the morning and motorbikes turning into the street can be reckless. Continue along Hải Thượng Lãn Ông Street briefly where you will cross to the other side at the traffic lights.

Phở Ngân Nghi will get you going!

3. Cross Hải Thượng Lãng Ông Street

Please be careful here as you cross to the other side of Hải Thượng Lãng Ông Street, wait for the lights to turn green and always look both ways, particularly in the direction of traffic coming around the corner on your left!

4. Opposite side of Hải Thượng Lãn Ông Street

Now that you're safely across, head right along Hải Thượng Lãn Ông Street (away from Võ Văn Kiệt Street) until you get to Triệu Quang Phục Street (the next block). By the way, Hải Thượng Lãn Ông Street is named after the 18th century Vietnamese physician. He is Vietnam's most-celebrated doctor of traditional medicine and focused much of his time searching for a cure for smallpox after his son died from it. The naming of this street is so apt, isn't it? Can you smell the traditional medicine in the air already?

Time for breakfast for some, while for others it’s time to dash off to work!

5. Number 45 Hải Thượng Lãn Ông Street

This was the location of Quách Đàm - Thông Hiệp company HQ in the early 1900s. Quách Đàm became known as Chợ Lớn's "King of Commerce" by way of being a prosperous rice merchant. The story goes that a geomancer (a diviner who recommends the placement of buildings according to whether the site is lucky or not) told Quách Đàm that this location was the most auspicious shop house in the area because beneath the building was said to be the head of a dragon whose body reached out as far as the sea, in turn promising whoever worked here a continuous flow of money. If you can, give the building a little rub and see if it rubs off on you! Also, look up and see if you can make out the 'TH' logo inscribed on the building.

6. Number 65 Hải Thượng Lãn Ông Street

Have your camera poised again for shots of the buildings on this intersection with Triệu Quang Phục Street. They're quite awesome aren't they? After you've finished admiring them, make your way down Triệu Quang Phục Street, then turn right into Trần Tường Công Street.

Chợ Lớn can be an assault on the senses!

7. Turn right into Trần Tường Công Street

Keep an eye out for even more colonial-era architecture down this street! Back in the day, this street was known for its skilled furniture makers at a time when many of the streets in Chợ Lớn were devoted to trades, much like how the streets of the Old Quarter in Hà Nội are still today. 

8. Try some street food noodles

If you're still feeling a bit peckish, pop in here under the awning for some street side noodles (if she’s there!) alongside this awesome old colonial-era shophouse. Turn left into Lương Nhữ Học Street before zagging right into Đỗ Văn Sửu Street.

9. Turn right into Đỗ Văn Sửu Street

If you're in the market for some electrical supplies and err...chains, then this street might tickle your fancy! Wander down this short street till the end, then turn left into Vạn Kiếp Street. You should be able to see the Chà Và Bridge ramp ahead.

10. Turn left onto Vạn Kiếp Street

Before you turn left onto Vạn Kiếp Street, feel free to wander right in the opposite direction to take a quick look at the shophouses along here, but be sure to come back as next, you need to pass under Cầu Chà Và (Chà Và Bridge). Incidentally, the bridge's name is derived from the word Java, that's right, after the island in what is now Indonesia. Back in the day, traders from Java frequented the ports in this area, along with many Indian migrants from the French colonies in southern India who settled on the opposite side of the canal which today is known as District 8.  

These fellas will remind you of how early it is!

11. Pass under Cầu Chà Và here

Pass under the bridge here and then turn right on the other side back onto Vạn Kiếp Street along the western side of the bridge, then turn left into Trịnh Hoài Đức Street.

12. Turn left into Trịnh Hoài Đức Street

Take note of the colonial-era shophousees along this short stretch, then cross Mạc Cửu Street where you'll find Chợ Vật Liệu Xây Dựng or "Building Materials Market." You'll understand why it has that name when you see it!

13. Vật Liệu Xây Dựng Market

You'll be blown away by the amount and variety of building supplies in this market – after all, it's not named Building Materials Market for nothing! After you've had a look around, find Mạc Cửu Street at the eastern end of the market and head north in the direction of Hải Thượng Lãn Ông Street. You should be able to see the large roundabout ahead, the building on your left hand side is the Chợ Lớn Post Office.

Reminders abound of the origins of the community that lives in Chợ Lớn!

14. Chợ Lớn Post Office

While not as impressive as the Sài Gòn GPO, the post office's history and location is no less interesting. Once the location of Chợ Lớn's Central Market, it became the new home for the post office in 1935 after the creek nearby was filled in and its replacement, Bình Tây Market, was built not too far from here. Also, the area around the post office saw some of the fiercest battles during the second wave of the Tết Offensive in May 1968. Now walk down the other side of the post office back along Nguyễn Thi Street in the direction of Vật Liệu Xây Dựng Market and then turn right into Trịnh Hoài Đức Street.

15. Turn right into Trịnh Hoài Đức Street

Turn right here and continue a block, then turn right into Nguyễn An Khương Street.

16. Turn right into Nguyễn An Khương Street

Photographers might get the opportunity to take some "atmospheric" shots along this interesting little street that often has great light for those retro-looking Chinatown vibes! Continue to the end of the street where you will turn left onto Hải Thượng Lãn Ông Street momentarily before turning left again into Phạm Bân Street.

17. Old Chinese Theatre Street

Known in the French era as rue du Theatre (now Phạm Bân Street) because this very route you are taking led to the Chinese Theatre (sadly demolished a long time ago) at the end of the street. Somehow Phạm Bân Street still "vibes" even though there's nothing tangible here to suggest this was a theatre-goers' quarter in the early 1900s. The shophouse where the street doglegs to the right is marvellous though, isn't it? And just around the corner, not too far from where the old theatre must have stood, catch a glimpse of some old Chinese characters painted on a wall that helps trigger the imagination of what things might have been like around here a century or more ago. At the end of the street, exit stage right onto Phùng Hưng Street.

So much of Chợ Lớn is about the architecture!

18. Turn right onto Phùng Hưng Street

Turn right here onto what was once known as rue de Paris and shortly after turn left onto Vũ Chí Hiếu Street where at number 32 you'll find the last original building of a group of three houses that was once owned by the powerful businessman Mã Tuyên. He was a family friend of RVN President Ngô Đình Diệm and his brother Ngô Đình Nhu and this is where President Diệm and his brother stayed the night before they were assassinated on November 1, 1963.

19. Turn left into Vũ Chí Hiếu Street

20. Number 32 Vũ Chí Hiếu Street

This is the last remaining building of three buildings where RVN President Ngô Đình Diệm and his brother spent the night before their assassination the following day on November 2, 1963. It was owned by family friend Mã Tuyên, a prominent Chợ Lớn businessman and by many accounts a racketeer within in the Chợ Lớn business community. Continue along the street to the end and turn left into Vạn Tượng Street. 

21. Vạn Tượng Street

Before this was a street, it used to be part of a canal system that was prevalent in the area that helped connect businesses by water with the Mekong Delta. This section was filled in around the mid-1920s and in 1961, Kim Biên Market was built. Don't enter the market yet as there are a few more things to eat and see before you return soon! Also of note was that this neighbourhood was the original home of the famous Vietnamese soap brand Cô Ba. Some of the buildings you see in the vicinity of the market are from that era and likely belonged to the Cô Ba empire! Ahead turn left into Hẻm 89 Đ Phùng Hưng.

Ready to go into one of Mr Thị’s yummy noodle soups!

22. Wonton noodle soup for breaky!

At this end of the alley, look out for some tasty food options for a snack or a top up for breakfast! Try Mr Thị’s place for a steaming hot mì hoành thánh (wonton noodle soup) situated around halfway along the alley. If you're not hungry, pop into XXX to try a cup of traditional herbal tea (see Point #23), she has local and imported teas that are said to be medicinal for certain internal organs. By the way, this alleyway has a great vibe and is one of the friendliest you'll come across on the walk! The market ladies are always up for some cheeky chat, so try out some of your newly-learned Vietnamese, or Chinese for that matter!

23. Time to take a tea break!

Around this location, pop into Ms Yen’s and try some of her medicinal teas that are said to help with the function of your internal organs. Typically she sells one particular tea per day per internal organ, for example, one tea for your stomach on one day, and then the next day for your lungs, the next for your liver and so on, so it depends on the day as to what tea you get! Towards the end of this vibrant alley, you'll pass through a small wet market where the ladies sell fruit and vegetables, along with meat and seafood. Also of note the length of this alleyway are some interesting old dwellings from yesteryear, don't be afraid to take a quick peek inside! At the end of the alley, turn right onto Phùng Hưng Street.

24. Phùng Hưng & Trịnh Hoài Đức Roundabout

Make your way along Phùng Hưng Street where eventually you'll come to the roundabout. It's a unique looking square with attractive late colonial and modernist buildings dominating the scene before you. A particular favourite is the Nguyen Hiep Tran building with its sign fashioned out of brick and concrete emblazoned across the top of the building. This intersection has an amazing vibe. When you're ready, turn right here and continue west along Trịnh Hoài Đức Street past all the building and lighting supplies stores until you reach Vạn Tượng Street where you turn right and you'll see Kim Biên Market. 

Of course, Chợ Lớn is about the people, too! Mr Hong is approaching his 70s but he’s still available for hire!

25. Turn right onto Vạn Tượng Street

Vạn Tượng Street started out as a canal said to have been dug around the early 1800s. There was once another important canal that ran west of this position of which some sections of the canal remain today. These canals had the important role of connecting the Mekong Delta with Bình Tây Market and central Chợ Lớn. This location became a T-junction where the two waterways met and in the 1920s the iconic "Three-Arch Bridge" spanned here until it was demolished in 1990. Things look a bit less grand these days!

26. Kim Biên Market

Find one of the main entrances to Kim Biên Market here. After a quick snoop about the market – you'll find stalls for eyewear (including sunglasses), ladies clothing and make-up (and who knows what else?!) – make your way out through the same way you entered and turn right onto Kim Biên Street walking in the direction of Hải Thượng Lãn Ông Street.

27. Former iconic Xà Bông (Soap) Việt Nam Factory

Try looking for the old Cô Ba logo on the wall of the building at #40 Kim Biên Street. Make your way to Hải Thượng Lãn Ông Street ahead and turn left.

Chợ Lớn is colourful in many ways!

28. Lệ Chí Table Tennis Club

Take a step back in time by stepping in to admire the French colonial-era Lệ Chí Table Tennis Club. And if you're up for a hit, tables and equipment are for hire at great prices per hour! Ask if you can take a quick look upstairs as well!  Afterwards, make your way to the Học Lạc Street intersection and cross Hải Thượng Lãn Ông Street.

29. Cross here at the pedestrian crossing

Keep an eye out for traffic in every direction! Make your way safely across to Học Lạc Street and continue north until you reach the gates of St Francis Xavier Church on the left hand side of the street across from the intersection with Trần Hưng Đạo B Street.

30. St Francis Xavier Church

This church was inaugurated in 1902 and Father d'Assou – known in Vietnamese as Cha Tam (Father Tam) – became its first priest. Cha Tam built a school, an orphanage and other parish institutions and became greatly loved and respected. When he died in 1934, he was buried beneath the entrance lobby. The church to this day is still colloquially known as Father Tam Church. But nowadays the church is mostly remembered as the place where South Vietnamese President Ngô Đình Diệm and his brother were arrested while praying during the military coup on the morning of November 2, 1963. They were bundled into an armoured personnel carrier and taken to face those responsible, but they never made it to their destination alive, having been executed on a street corner by members of the coup forces some time during the journey. Continue east along Trần Hưng Đạo B Street.

31. Chợ Soái Kình Lâm (Fabric Market)

As you stroll down Trần Hưng Đạo B Street, marvel at the hustle and bustle of Sài Gòn's most vibrant and largest fabric markets. Established in 1989, the market has around 500 fabric stalls. Much of the fabric sold here winds up in stores selling áo dài, and monks are even known to come here to buy fabric for new robes! The market is open from 7.30am - 4.30pm daily.

32. Chợ Đại Quang Minh

Turn right into Tống Duy Tân Street (more of an alley) where immediately you'll be greeted with small stalls selling a myriad of colourful and whimsical garment accessories. But that's not all! Towards the halfway point along the alley, you'll find the entrance to Chợ Đại Quang Minh, home to (apparently) 600 stalls selling even more accessories, including beads, fake flowers, tassels, ribbon, fabric, thread, buttons, lace, lanterns, and more! Even if you don't sew or not looking to stock up, it's worth taking a quick walk around inside to see the sheer amount of accessories for sale crammed into such small selling quarters!

The alleyways of Chợ Lớn turn up all sorts of interesting knick knacks!

33. Turn left into Hải Thượng Lãn Ông Street

At the roundabout at Hải Thượng Lãn Ông &  Châu Văn Liêm Streets, turn left into  Châu Văn Liêm Street. Located at number 5  Châu Văn Liêm Street is Hồ Chí Minh Memorial House.

34. Hồ Chí Minh Memorial House

While spending time in the fishing village of Phan Thiết (approx. 170km east of HCMC and known for its fish sauce), a young Nguyễn Tất Thành (who would become known as Hồ Chí Minh) became acquainted with the directors of Phan Thiết-based fish sauce company Công Ty Liên Thành Thương Quán. They shared Nguyễn Tất Thành's political views and promised him accommodation when he reached Sài Gòn. Soon after his arrival here in September 1910, Thành moved into this building and stayed here for almost a year, travelling back and forth between Chợ Lớn and Sài Gòn while he studied at what is now Cao Thắng Technical College in District 1. In June the following year, he got a job on a ship that left Nhà Rồng wharf, heralding the beginning of an epic 30-year odyssey overseas, and as they say, the rest is history! Open Monday to Friday 8am - 11am & 1.30pm - 4pm. Closed weekends. NOTE: Listed opening times doesn't mean it will be open! It's luck of the draw, I'm afraid! From here, walk two blocks north along Châu Văn Liêm Street until Nguyễn Trãi Street where you'll turn left.

35. Turn left into Nguyễn Trãi Street

36. Chinese community assembly hall

The people of Chợ Lớn help make this place special!

37. Turn right into Phùng Hưng Market

Phùng Hưng Market takes up around three blocks with its centre located at the intersection of Phùng Hưng and Lão Tử Streets. In the morning, it’s a bustling fresh produce market, then in the late afternoon, early evenings it becomes one of the city’s best known street food gems. The market is over 100 years old. In the early days it became known as the Capitol Market because the Capitol Theatre was located nearby. Look out for Hong Kong-style “stocking” milk tea, along with Hanoi-style egg coffee. Something the night market has become famous for is Hakka (related to the Han Chinese peoples) specialties like bitter melon and chili soup, and red peppers stuffed with fish cake and cooked with fried tofu in a peppery, chili-infused broth! But, in the evenings, you’ll also find Vietnamese classics like bánh xèo, bò lá lốt and even curry!

38. Turn right into Lão Tử Street

Continue to enjoy what's on offer at the market then wander along Lão Tử Street where just before the intersection on your right hand side, you'll find a hidden gem to rest for a bit before you take on the rest of the walk.

39. Voila Cafe & Bar - 123 Châu Văn Liêm Street

By day a cafe with a good cà phê sữa đá, by night a bar with Wong Kar-wai vibes in a French colonial-era building a few floors up overlooking one of Chợ Lớn's liveliest intersections. Sshh...don't tell anyone! Open mornings, closes around lunch, reopens late afternoon. NOTE: Address is 123 Châu Văn Liêm Street but entrance is on Lão Tử Street.

Oases like this help take the heat out of the day!

40. Turn left into Lương Nhữ Học Street

Turn left into Lương Nhữ Học Street, then shortly after turn right into Ký Hoà Street. There are a number of food options on Ký Hoà Street, including the much-loved Tiến Phát, a Hong Kong-style dim sum restaurant, but keep in mind it closes at 12.30pm. Find it on the left hand side close to the intersection with Phù Đổng Thiên Vương Street.

41. Turn right into Hẻm 714 Đ. Nguyễn Trãi 

Stroll down this quiet residential alleyway where you can take a sneak peek into the lives of everyday people in Chợ Lớn. At the end of the alley, turn left into Nguyễn Trãi Street.

42. Bà Thiên Hậu 

One of Chợ Lớn's most impressive temples that can be traced back to the 19th century when it was built by Chinese settlers in the community. The temple was constructed to honour and worship the goddess of the sea, Mazu, and is an important religious and cultural site. Open 8am-5pm, entrance free. Retrace your steps briefly back along Nguyễn Trãi Street passed Hẻm 714 on your right, then cross the street and turn left into Nguyễn Án Street.

It would be wrong not to try at least one of Ms Phương’s baked delights!

43. Phương's Bakery

At number 11 Nguyễn Án Street, find this cute bakery in a colonial shophouse and stop here to try their cream filled croissants! After your naughty little treat, turn right into Phú Đinh Street.

44. The Lover's "bachelor pad"

The exterior of number 7 Phú Đinh Street was chosen as the bachelor pad where "the Chinaman" entertained his mistresses in the 1992 film The Lover. Ooh la la! Retrace your steps and turn right into Nguyễn Án Street and turn left at the end of the street.

45. Turn left into Trần Hưng Đạo B Street

Continue east along Trần Hưng Đạo B Street, cross the intersection with Triệu Quang Phục Street and continue until 331 Trần Hưng Đạo B Street where you'll find the HCMC Assoc. for Victims of Agent Orange.

There are little surprises around every corner!

46. HCMC Assoc. for Victims of Agent Orange

Here at 331 Trần Hưng Đạo B Street, find old photographs of victims of Agent Orange in the foyer. The association has a small office here with a small number of staff. If you're lucky, you might get an impromptu introduction to the work they do!

47. Arc-en-ciel Hotel

This version was originally rebuilt in the 1960s, before then the Arc-en-ciel Restaurant and Dance Hall stood here, one of the most popular entertainment venues in the late colonial era. If you've read The Quiet American, the name of this place will be familiar to you. Back in the day, this is where you'd come to hire a "taxi-girl" for a night of conversation and dancing and then who knows what! From the late 1880s, the intersection here was an important transport hub and served as the terminus for the Saigon-Chợ Lớn steam tramway that connected the two cities before they were amalgamated after the swamp between the two cities was filled.

Don’t forget to keep room for a donut at May Kitchen!

48. Hẻm Hào Sỹ Phường

There are hundreds (perhaps more) alleyways in Saigon, but there aren't too many like this one that have been around in its current form for over 100 years. The hẻm is a stunning example of how the Hoa people of Saigon have lived for generations. Out of respect for its inhabitants, please don't take photos or video while experiencing this truly immersive Chợ Lớn gem.

49. S'mores Cafe

Enjoy what might just be one of Saigon's best cà phê sữa đá in a converted French colonial-era property over multiple levels. It's an Instagrammers delight! This might be where you'd like to finish your walk because the seats are comfy, the drinks are good and the air-con is cranked right up. If you'd like to complete the full loop, turn south onto Ngô Quyền Street, then take the next right into An Điềm Street.

50. Hủ Tiếu Quán Tỷ

This eatery has been around for more than half a century serving up a range of noodle dishes including the ubiquitous hủ tiếu. Keep in mind they usually close pretty early (around midday), so you need to get in quick! Not hungry, perhaps looking for another coffee or donut? Cross the Phan Phú Tiên Street intersection and continue along An Điềm Street for half a block until you come to May Kitchen on the left hand side.

51. May Kitchen

A cute little hole-in-the-wall cafe serving coffee and tea along with a small selection of snacks, including donuts! This is the last stop on your walk. Tân Hàng Street is just up ahead where Ngan Nghi Phở is and just around the corner from there is the parking place for those who rode their motorbikes!

All photos by Matt @thebureauasia